Friday, March 6, 2009

Ben's Chili Bowl

1213 U Street NW
Washington DC 20009
202 667 0909


The Chili Bowl is one of those neighborhood slop chutes that enjoy a kind of ethnic immunity. Nobody can bring themselves to criticize a successful Black owned eatery. Even the building itself enjoys historic landmark protection although it is no more historic or distinguished than any other building on the block.

As a cafĂ© or landmark, Ben’s reputation has three premises; it didn’t get torched in the riots; Bill Cosby eats there on occasion and the DC City Council subsidizes their taxes. The food is every bit as good as any you might find at a street cart. Their signature dish is a half-smoke slathered with chili and cheese – lousy cheese. The kind of junk food served here and places like it has probably done more damage to health in the hood than diabetes. Ben’s is fortunate to be located near Howard University Hospital.

The prices at Ben’s are great but the food is not; and good luck finding a place to park. If you want an authentic DC African American eating experience with true value, try the Hitching Post just outside the gate of the Old Soldiers Home. Ben’s iconic stature may be related to the tendency of even Black entrepreneurs not to open quality eateries in the “wrong neighborhoods”.

The class of Black American or Southern cooking is B. Smith’s (Union Station) and Georgia Brown’s (15th & K). Both have good food, but neither is a value. They are located in the DC “deductible” or expense account zones of the city.

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